Overhaulin' A Mavic Hub
(With apologies to readers of the new and improved Elvis Kennedy photography site, Elvis is providing this How-To to readers of the old cycling site who are in need of this very helpful information. For more of Elvis' old cycling blog go here; http://elviskennedy.blogspot.com/ ).
This tutorial will show you how to break down and clean a Mavic hub. Mavic hubs covered include; Cosmis Carbone SL, Ksyrium SL, Ksyrium Elite, Crossmax SL (and SL disc) and Crossman XL (and XL disc).
Time to Complete: Fifteen minutes if you're handy. Thirty if you're not.
Cassette removal tool
5 mm allen wrench
10 mm allen wrench
Mineral oil - Mavic M40122 ($22.00), Pedro's Dry Lube or Road Rage Lube ($6.50) or mineral oil from Home Depot/Menards/Fleet Farm ($1.99)
Before starting to take the hub apart you may want to get a large, light colored towel or bed sheet to place on the ground/table under the wheel. There are a few small, spring loaded parts that will fly about if you're not careful. The light sheet will make them easier to find. Or, you can do what Elvis did and have one of the little springs fall to the deck and then roll between the cedar boards of the deck and drop to the ground underneath. Luckily, Elvis has excellent vision and was able to spy the little spring. After tying a wheel magnet to a string and dropping it down between the boards the little spring was retrieved. Don't let this happen to you.
OK, here we go!
Step One: Remove the wheel from the bike.
Step Two: Remove the quick release skewers.
Step Three: Remove the cassette from the hub (now would be a good time to take the cassette apart and give it a good cleaning).
Step Four: By hand, twist and gently pull on the end of the axle on the non-drive side until the cap comes off (see figure 1)
Step Five: Put the 10 mm wrench into the end you just pulled the cap from and the 5 mm wrench on the drive-side end of the axle. Turn the wrenches counter-clockwise until the axle screw from the drive-side comes out (see figures 2 and 3).
Step Six: Now comes the only step where you need to take real care. On the drive-side gently pull up on the free wheel body (figure 4). Cup your hands around the free wheel as you pull up to catch anything that might come flying out. Inside the free wheel are two spring loaded pawls (see figure 5). As you pull the free wheel body off these may pop out. Reach your fingers under the free wheel and hold the pawls in as you remove the free wheel body. You'll see them as soon as you start pulling the free wheel off. As you pull the free wheel off it will catch on a detent. Just turn the free wheel slightly and continue to lift it off (while holding in the pawls so that they don't spring out).
Figure 4 (the free wheel body)
Figure 5 (spring loaded pawl)
Step Seven: After removing the free wheel body set it down and then gently remove the pawls and springs (two of each - see figure 6). There will also be a washer that sits on top of the axle bearing, under the free wheel. Pull this off too.
Step Eight: Thoroughly clean the free wheel body (inside and out), the pawls, the springs and the washer.
Step Nine: Remove the rubber lip seal that sits at the bottom of the drive side hub (see figures 7 and 8).
Figure 8. Rubber lip seal. Note that the angled lip side faces out and the flat side faces into the hub.
Step Ten: Thoroughly clean the rubber seal and the entire hub assembly. Make sure that you clean the hub well area (where the rubber seal sits).
Step Eleven: Time to put things back together. Start by putting the rubber seal back in place. Note that the flat side goes down, facing the hub - and the angled side faces out, or up. Lubricate the seal with some mineral oil.
Step Twelve. Put 15 drops of mineral oil inside the free wheel body.
Step Thirteen: Place the washer on top of the hub, with the holes aligned.
Step Fourteen: Put the springs on the pawls by pushing the springs onto the little nub on each pawl. Carefully slip the pawls back into place while directing the springs back into their holes. (see figures 9 and 10).
Figure 9. Pawl slot and spring hole.
Figure 10. Pawl and spring properly mounted.
Step Fifteen: While holding the pawls flush against the hub, drop the free wheel body back into place. Some oil may drip out of the free wheel body. That's OK. Just wipe off the excess when everything is back together.
Step Sixteen: Put the axle screw into the free wheel and thread it snugly into place. Get your allen wrenches and tighten things back up.
Feel how smooth the wheel spins!
Put your (now shiny clean) cassette back on. Put the skewer back on. Mount the wheel back on your bike and ride like the wind!