BUYING A CAMERA TO TAKE ALONG ON YOUR BIKE

Many of you have emailed me asking how I manage to take all of the pictures here at ElvisKennedy.com, especially the ones I take while on the bike. This article will address what camera to buy and how to use it when out cycling.

Point and shoot digital cameras. Has there ever been a product whose life cycle is so short? As recently as six months ago you could buy a camera and be sure that within a month or so it would be replaced with a newer, better and cheaper model. Not even PC's get replaced as fast as digital cameras. Has this got you down, bunko? Well I've got good news for you; the megapixel wars that drove camera development are over. That's right, buy a camera today and you will get years of use out of it without feeling that you made a mistake. This isn't to say that cameras won't improve or get cheaper because they will, but it won't happen nearly as fast.

The other piece of good news is that as this technology has matured and spread out almost any camera out there today will give you good pictures, with the only real differences in models being look, feel and features. I can almost hear you asking, "Hold on there Elvis, aren't the new 8 megapixel cameras twice as good as the 4 megapixel models?". In a word - no. The image sensor in almost every camera is exactly the same size. This sensor, (which records what you've got the camera pointed at - just like film did in 35mm days) contains tiny pixels that record data. When 1 million pixels where spread out (1 megapixel) on this sensor there was a lot of room in between the sweet spot of the pixels and this lead to less than stellar performance. Cameras improved dramatically as manufacturers were able to put more pixels onto the sensor. But a funny thing happened when they started putting (for marketing purposes) more than 6 or 7 million pixels on the sensor. In order to put so many pixels on a defined size they had to reduce the size of the pixels and at some point as the pixels shrunk in size - so did their quality. Camera companies knew that potential customers understood none of this and just thought that more megapixels meant a better picture. And these companies were naturally happy to have us all replacing our cameras every 6 months or so.

This is an oversimplification of course, and probably more information than you need but it serves to explain why almost any name brand camera that you buy in the 5-7 megapixel range will give you the ability to make a fine print for hanging on your wall or a lovely electronic image to email to grandma.

Great. Now that we know what megapixel size to focus on will the choice be easy? Unfortunately, no. There are literally hundreds of name brand cameras to choose from in the 5-7 megapixel range. So what else can we do to narrow our choices? Well, since we want to be able to use the camera while out cycling it needs to be on the smaller side. Sure, you could stuff one of the bigger cameras in your jersey pocket. These are all point & shoot cameras afterall, even the biggest one is small by 35mm SLR standards. Still, if it's not small, light, easy to get in and out of your pocket and easy to use - you just won't take it along. And that would defeat it's purpose.

What else are we looking for in a cycling camera? How about a big and bright screen? We'll be using this out in the bright sunshine and it would be nice to see what the camera is pointed at, wouldn't it? How about a lens that has a wide angle so that you can fit all of your cycling buddies into one shot without being a hundred yards out front? It also needs to have a so-called "dummy" or automatic mode. A setting whereby the camera does everything for you; focus, set the aperture, set the shutter speed, etc. (truly point and shoot). And you need to be able to use it successfully with one hand - safety first.

You also want a camera that does not use or need a lens cap. A lens cap is just something that will get in your way, affect your biking concentration (as you try to remove, keep track and replace it) and eventually get lost. A camera with a lens that retracts into the camera body when not in use is nice too. Easier to get it into and out of your pocket without a big lens 'nose' catching on everything.

Canon Powershot S2. Too bulky and requires a lens cap.

We've made some progress narrowing our choices. But what about brands? There are about 20 different brands that offer more than one camera that would fit out current list of needs. When I buy stuff I like to buy from companies in the business of making the products. What do I mean by this? As an example; Nikon is in the camera business. If they made a really crappy camera you'd never buy another Nikon camera. Which is to say that you'd never buy anything from Nikon. Plus, Nikon has decades of expertise in this business. Sony by contrast, isn't quite as concerned about making great cameras. They can still sell you a playstation, a computer, television, stereo, music CD's and so on. Sony, while they make fine digital cameras, aren't really in the camera business. I've got nothing against Sony it's just that we need to narrow our choices and sticking with companies that focus (note the pun) on photography is a smart choice. Along with eliminating Sony, we can eliminate Epson, Fuji, HP, JVC, Kodak, Kyocera, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo and Toshiba. Don't feel bad if you've already got a camera made by one of these companies, our purpose here is simply to narrow our search for the prospective buyer. The only exception here is Casio, a camera that I use frequently. Why the exception? Because it was the smallest camera that met all of the requirements outlined above at the time I bought it. It's the size and weight of a deck of cards. Most of the pictures you see here at ElvisKennedy.com come from this little gem. It's a proven performer.

Casio EX-750. 3.5 x 2.4 x 0.9 inches.

Of of the real camera companies; Canon, Contax, Konica-Minolta, Leica, Nikon, Olympus and Pentax, we can eliminate Konica-Minolta and Contax as being too esoteric and Leica for being too expensive. Olympus is a very fine camera company that gets eliminated because they force you to use a proprietary memory card (more expensive, not as readily available).

Let's review. What we want in a camera are the following specifications;

Between 5 and 7 megapixels
A screen at least 2 inches wide, and bright
Lens that retracts into the camera body and uses no lens cap
Has an "auto everything" mode
Wide angle of 40mm or less
Easy to turn on/off with one hand
Easy to take a picture with one hand
Smaller is better
Made by one of the following; Canon, Casio, Nikon, Pentax

The rest of the specifications that fill the sales brochures, things like; DIGIC III Image Processor, Face Detection Technology, Super Sport Mode, One Shot Easy Print Mode and the rest really don't matter. It's all just marketing B.S. Don't concern yourself with them.

We've made great progess. Each of the four companies recommended by ElvisKennedy have 5 to 10 cameras that will meet our needs. We've reduced our possible and confusing choice set from hundreds down to about 30. But 30 is still a lot and you could spend weeks or months reading the on-line reviews, getting confused with specifications, reading glowing sales brochures and listening to salespeople who really have no idea what they're talking about. Or, you could let Elvis Kennedy do the heavy lifting and just pick one of the four that he recommends.

Each of the four cameras recommended here meet all of the criteria we've discussed and each comes from a different price point so that you'll have a nice selection from which to choose.

All of these cameras have the following features (in addition to those outlined above) that Elvis Kennedy feels are important; built-in flash, movie mode, self-timer, rechargeable battery (save the Earth!).

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Canon Powershot SD800

7.1 megapixels / 2.5 inch screen / 28mm wide lens - excellent (also zooms to 105mm) / 3.5 x 2.3 x 1 inch / 6.9 ounces / $369.00
Super camera that also features an image stabilizer (anti-shake)- great for those bumpy roads!
Read more and buy it HERE.

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Pentax Optio T20

7.1 megapixels / 3.0 inch screen / 37.5mm wide lens (also zooms to 112.5mm) / 3.7 x 2.3 x 0.8 inch / 5.5 ounces / $299.95
Big, 3 inch screen is nice.
Read more and buy it HERE.

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Casio Exilim EX-S600

6.0 megapixels / 2.2 inch screen / 38mm wide lens (also zooms to 114mm) / 3.5 x 2.3 x 0.6 inch / 4.4 ounces / $239.95
Also has an anti-shake feature. Smallest and lightest. Choice of colors.
Read more and buy it HERE.

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Nikon Coolpix S9

6.0 megapixels / 2.5 inch screen / 38mm wide lens (also zooms to 114mm) / 3.6 x 2.3 x 0.8 inch / 5.8 ounces / $209.95
Read more and buy it HERE.

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For full disclosure; ElvisKennedy.com, unlike other sites, does NOT get a kick-back for referring readers to commercial sites. The on-line seller that Elvis recommends for all photography equipment is B&H in New York City. This is where the links for more info and to buy the cameras will take you. ElvisKennedy.com has been dealing with B&H for over 20 years. They are honest and they are legitimate. If you don't like something you purchase there, or you change your mind - return it for a full refund.

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Here are some tips for using your new camera;

- Never push down on the shutter button. This motion will cause the camera to shake and the result will be a blurry picture. While your index finger is on the button, gently squeeze the camera between your index finger and your thumb (which is under the camera).

- Leave the lens at it's widest zoom setting. Not only will you get more of your cycling world on the picture, it's also the point at which most lenses offer the best quality imaging.

- Never use the 'digital zoom' settings. On or off the bike this is just a gimmick and will ruin your photos.

- Preset your camera to the auto mode so that you don't have to concern yourself with f-stops, shutter speeds and ISO settings. Off the bike you do worry about those things, don't you?

- Always have your camera set for the highest image quality. This will be under the picture/quality/resolution menu. Just set it for the biggest number or "Fine" or "High".

- Memory cards are cheap. Arm yourself with a 1 gig card and you will be able to take hundreds of photos. If you purchase by clicking on one of the links you can easily add a memory card to your order. Just browse the "Accessories" tab. Don't rely on the memory card provided with the camera. It's stupid small. Elvis Kennedy recommends that you get a 1 gig memory card. You could save 5 dollars by buying a smaller card but that would be silly. And if you stick with Sandisk or Lexar brands you won't have any trouble. This will add about $35.00 to your investment (if you buy on-line at ElvisKennedy's preferred vendor).

- Set the ISO (don't ask, doesn't matter) of your camera to 100 and leave it there. A higher number will add significant noise to your images.

- Play around with the video mode of these cameras. It's fun and easy, and you will (should) always have it with you since it's so portable. The quality is surprisingly high. Just look at THIS VIDEO shot on a bike with the little Casio. If you always have a little video camera handy you never know what you'll be able to do with it. Maybe you'll catch your boss doing something he/she shouldn't be doing. Then use the video to make one of two things; 1) yourself the boss after he/she gets fired, or 2) lots of blackmail money.

- When in video mode try not to do any zooming, and hold the camera still. Otherwise you'll get a crappy movie like that guy who recorded Saddam Hussein's hanging did. Pre-zoom for composition before hitting the record button and then hold the camera steady. It also helps if you refrain from chanting radical Islamic nonsense.

- In warm weather keep the camera in a little plastic baggy when on your bike. Otherwise it will get full of sweat.

- For heaven's sake - be careful! Especially if you try this while riding. Make sure that you practice operating the camera before taking it for a ride. Keep it in an easily accessible location. Have any settings set in advance. Pay attention to your cycling and your surroundings at all times. If you have to, guess by pointing your camera at it's intended target. Don't stare at the image screen (before or after shooting). You don't need perfect composition here.

The Boss, about to put the hammer down.

- Here's what Elvis does to get a good shot while riding. But first, a disclaimer. Elvis Kennedy does not recommend that anyone attempt to take pictures while riding a bike. It's dangerous. Don't do it. Really. Elvis Kennedy will not be responsible for anything bad that happens to you. Or any one else. Ever.

Some have asked how Elvis does it and here goes (This is an outline of what Elvis sometimes carefully does, not a recommendation for what you should do. You want a recommendation? Don't do it.);

1) Have an idea of what photo you want before whipping out the camera. If you just pull it out and start shooting you're unlikely to get anything worthwhile and you'll be thinking about photography instead of cycling. A front or behind shot of your cycling buddies is almost always a good choice. Especially with cool scenery around.
2) Look ahead for a smooth, open and empty stretch of road. Slight downhill is good so that you don't have to pedal.
3) Make sure that you're steady on the bike and get your camera out. Since you've preset everything (you did, didn't you?) and since it's already on auto mode (because you paid attention to the earlier comments) all you need to do is turn it on.
4) Carefully position yourself for the shot.
5) Maintaining a steady position, bring the camera up, point it at your desired target and shoot. You can briefly glance at the display to get a rough idea of your framing but don't stare at it. Never forget that you're on a bike. Remember that you can crop and straighten your pictures at home on the computer easily and more safely than you can while riding.
6) Take multiple shots. Since the road is bumpy and you're guessing at framing take 3 or 4 shots. Your odds of getting something worthwhile will go up.
7) Turn the camera off and put it away.
8) If you're not comfortable taking pictures on the bike don't fret. Just ride ahead, get off your bike and take the shots of your buddies as they roll by. If the scenery is pretty - stop and smell the roses. Then take a picture.
9) Never do this in traffic, in town, in big groups, in races or with cyclists who would rather you didn't. Or anywhere else or in any manner that is unsafe.
10) Some of the best shots are pre and post ride.

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Elvis, meet Colnago. Colnago, meet Elvis.

The Bicycle Doctor had my new bike and I in for a session yesterday. The good news is that it looks as if the relationship will be a good one. Sure, we each had to make some compromises. We each had to admit that we had made mistakes and that for the relationship to be a long and strong one we each needed to be sensitive to the needs of the other. Communication and sensitivity will be the keys to a long and enjoyable relationship according to the advice of the good Doctor.

There are so many theories on bike position that I have avoided going in for a fitting thinking that they were as likely to muck up my position as they were to make me more comfortable or more powerful on a bike. But after both Buster and The Boss recommended that I go to the Bicycle Doctor to see Doctor Tom I finally relented. Click HERE to see the method I had previously used to set up my bike position.

Doctor Tom is well-known around these parts. As much for the famous Saturday morning 'Drop the Doc' ride as for his years of riding bicycles and owning and running a local bike shop. What I really like about Tom is his willingness to cut through all of the crap and get down to what really matters on a bike; comfort and power. He also subscribes to the LeMond method of getting the knees square and over the pedals, which makes sense to me.

First off, Tom had me spin easily on a trainer. He observed me from the front and the side to get a feel for where I was in relationship to the pedals. He then measured my hip angle; both with my foot at the bottom of the stroke and with my foot at 9:00 o'clock. From that he made a quick conclusion that my shoe cleats were too far back. He moved them forward so that the ball of my foot would be slightly behind the spindle of the pedal so that I could get maximum power on the forward and downward portion of the pedal stroke. This also opened my hip angle slightly which hopefully results in a bit more power.

The measurements also confirmed that my saddle was too low. We spent the next few minutes raising the saddle, spinning and measuring, until we found the optimum height. He would continually ask me how the position felt because he believes that the "feel" of the rider is every bit as important as the science of the fitting. He would rather that a person be comfortable than for a person to fight to be in a textbook position.

Since the seat tube angles back at 73.5 degrees any upward positioning of the saddle also required some compensatory movement forward. As the saddle goes up it also goes back because of the angle of the seat tube. To get this right Tom used a laser beam to accurately get a saddle fore/aft position that placed the forward part of my knee directly over the pedal spindle when the pedal was at the 9:00 o'clock position. This, according to the LeMond method, provides more efficiency as well as less stress on the knee joints. The neutral-knee position.

Note the position of the tape which marks the starting point. The saddle went up 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) and it went forward 3/8 inch (9.5 mm).

Once those positions were dialed in the next thing to measure/adjust was feet angle. By this I mean the rotation of the foot from side-to-side (the deflection from flat of the inner part of the foot to the outer part). That last line was confusing, wasn't it? Just go HERE for a better description of the problem as well as the solution, from Lemond Fitness.

Doctor Tom again used his laser device from in front of me to measure the deflection of my knee position in relation to my foot, the so-called forefoot tilt I was trying to describe above. From this measurement he was able to determine that I did in fact have some foot deflection. The solution was to insert some plastic wedges in between the sole of my shoes and the cleat to compensate for my forefoot tilt. Tom said that the classic knee-in riding position of years past has been proven to be less efficient and more likely to cause knee injuries that the neutral-knee position. Look at some old pictures of professional riders or watch some old Tour footage and you'll see riders with their knees bumping the top tube on each stroke. And then remember that many rider's careers ended with knee injuries, something we don't hear a lot about any more.

After that we spent some time making sure that my position felt good. I did feel 'tall' on the bike and I could feel the wedges on my shoes but none of it caused pain or discomfort so that was good. But I didn't feel particularly powerful either. Tom said I needed a few days of easy riding so that my muscles could get used to the new position before I would feel any benefits. New positioning means that different areas of the leg musculature will be asked to do more work and those muscles need time to 'break in'.

Then Doc checked my elbow angles as I rode the hoods and the drops. He said that handlebar width and stem length have more to do with comfort than with power so whatever 'felt' good was good. How refreshing, a shop owner not trying to sell me some equipment to solve a non-existent problem. I'm beginning to like this guy. The last thing he checked was handlebar height. He thought that I might want to raise it a bit due to the 1/2 inch rise in my saddle. But since it felt good to me the way it was we decided to leave it alone for now. if I experience any low back pain I can creep the bars up a bit.

As we were finishing the Sram rep stopped in to give Tom a demonstration of the new 10 speed shifting componentry. I hung around for the demo and my initial reaction is that it's nothing special. No features that break any ground when compared to Campy or Shimano, no weight savings and it's priced about the same. I see no reason to switch. But I do think that competition is a good thing and if this forces Campy and Shimano to innovate, all the better.

The fit session ran $75.00 and for that Tom also set up a second pair of shoes for me. Was it worth it? Only time will tell. Since I'm about to log some major mileage I should be able to give you an update in a week or so.

For some general tips on bike position go HERE. For more on the Greg LeMond system of fitting I recommend that you find a copy of his book, "Greg LeMond's Complete Book of Bicycling". In addition to his ideas on fitting you'll find tons of other useful information. And for a contrary view, just to add to the confusion, go HERE.

Later that evening The Boss took me out for a moderately paced 30 miles and what I noticed the most were the wedges in the shoes. I could see that my knees were staying vertical and the side-to-side swaying was all but imperceptible, so the wedges seem to be working. My legs were more sore than usual the following morning and that I suppose can be attributed to the muscles working a bit differently than before. I'm not talking about severe soreness, just different.

I've got just a few days before I begin the second annual "50% of the miles, 100% of the effort" Tour journey so hopefully my legs will quickly adjust. Speaking of the Tour journey, I do plan on posting a ride report every day so please stay tuned. For those of you who don't know what I'm talking about you can peruse my posts from last year by clicking HERE and HERE. Essentially, I ride 50% of the Tour de France mileage every day of the Tour. It's hard, it's fun. You can keep track of my progress by clicking on the "Tour Mileage Chart" in the column at the left. And if you're in the area of Milwaukee, WI and want to do one of the rides with me just send me an email, I'd love the company.